Wanderlogs

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While most of Goa dances to the rhythm of waves and neon lights, Tambdi Surla Mahadev Temple sits quietly in a different world — one made of ancient stone, whispering forests, and a deep sense of timelessness. Tucked away in the Bhagwan Mahavir Wildlife Sanctuary, this 12th-century Shiva temple isn’t just a place — it’s a feeling.

About the Tambdi Surla Temple — Goa’s Oldest Living Temple:

Built in the 12th Century by the Kadamba Dynasty, the temple is dedicated to Lord Shiva. Carved out of black basalt stone, it has survived centuries of monsoons, invasions, and jungle creep — thanks to its solid craftsmanship and relative seclusion. The temple is relatively small but rich in intricate carvings: Look closely at the Nandi bull, resting patiently in front of the sanctum. The Shivlinga still draws worshippers — making this not just a monument, but a living place of prayer. Surrounding the temple is a carpet of wild grass, fluttering butterflies, and the occasional monkey swinging overhead — it's peaceful, yet alive.

What Makes Tambdi Surla Special?

Solitude: No crowds. Just the sound of wind, the chirp of cicadas, and the hum of ancient energy.

Architecture: No cement, no steel — just hand-carved volcanic stone standing firm for over 800 years.

Setting: Dense forests surround the temple on all sides. There’s a clear stream running nearby — ideal for a short walk or meditation.

Photography Heaven: Early morning mist, moss-covered stones, and sunbeams piercing through trees make for dreamlike captures.

 The Best Route to Reach Tambdi Surla

I started my journey from Quepem, and the drive itself felt like a prelude to something special:

Route Taken: Quepem → Curchorem → Sanguem → Collem (Kulem) → Tambdi Surla

Driving Time: Approx. 1 hr 45 min (can vary with traffic and stops)

Road Quality: Excellent highways till Collem. Last 7–8 km from Collem to the temple is a narrow, tree-lined stretch through the forest — drive slow, windows down, and let the chirping guide you.

Navigation Tip: Use Google Maps but keep an offline map ready, as signal can be patchy inside the sanctuary.

Places You Can Visit Nearby:

If you’re planning a day trip, here’s what you can explore around Tambdi Surla:

Dudhsagar Waterfalls (approx. 24 km): One of India’s tallest and most iconic waterfalls. Best experienced during/after monsoon. Accessible via jeep safari from Collem (closed during peak monsoon due to water levels).

Bhagwan Mahavir Wildlife Sanctuary & Mollem National Park: Rich biodiversity: spot Malabar giant squirrels, Indian bison (gaur), langurs, and colorful birds. Also home to Tambdi Waterfalls – a hidden gem for trekkers.

Devil’s Canyon: A lesser-known natural gorge with dark rock formations and fierce river currents. Locals have a legend that it’s “haunted” — but it’s mostly a geological marvel.

Collem Railway Station: Gateway to Goa’s most scenic rail route – you can see the famous Dudhsagar waterfall from the train during certain seasons.

Travel Tips & Essentials:

Start Early: The area is best enjoyed in the morning mist. Plus, wildlife activity is higher early in the day.

Wear Trek-Friendly Shoes: If you plan to walk to the nearby stream or explore forest trails.

Carry Water & Snacks: No commercial food stalls near the temple.

No/ Moderate Mobile Network: Enjoy a real digital detox.

Respect the Sanctity: It’s an active temple — dress modestly and avoid loud behavior.

Final Thoughts:

Tambdi Surla isn’t just about stone and structure — it’s about stillness. In a state known for its vibrant chaos, this temple is a rare pause — where the only sounds are rustling leaves, gurgling brooks, and your own thoughts coming into focus. It’s not the Goa most people know — and maybe that’s exactly why it stays with you.

Where Exactly Is It?

Location: Tambdi Surla Village, Sanguem taluka, South Goa

Coordinates: 15.4188° N, 74.2305° E

Time to Visit: Opens around 9 AM daily from sunrise to sunset

Best Season: October to March (Lush Post-monsoon, Pleasant Weather)